Art Deco Jewellery
The first three decades of the twentieth century saw the world change in so many ways. The invention of the automobile and the aeroplane meant that our lives would never be the same again. The Stock Market Crash and the Great Depression of 1929 hit the general public in quite a different way. There were economic changes and cultural developments which were accompanied by serious social upheaval. Throughout this time, however, fashion managed to establish a look, which included Art Deco jewellery, which is still popular in the twenty-first century. What came to be known as the 'Art Deco' style influenced not only jewellery and clothes, but also buildings, cars, furniture, household goods, art, sculpture, interior design and just about anything, in short, that could be seen to have a design.
Having its roots in France's 1900 world Exhibition, Art Deco was sumptuous, opulent and decorative, employing colours, shapes and materials never seen before. Ravaged by war and want, the people were ready for colour and extravagance. Art Deco was stylish, sophisticated and dramatic. It was led by no-one in particular and it had no particular message for the people, but it had a huge influence across North America and Europe.
Women were more independent than previously and began to experiment with new and daring styles. Short hair and cloche hats had to be complimented by a different style of jewellery. Names like Jean Fouquet, Raymond Templier and Gerard Sandoz were at the cutting edge of French design. Art Deco jewellery, sometimes referred to as 'costume jewellery', due to its roots in the theatre, employed coloured stones, white gold, pearls, platinum and diamonds.
Following the Second World War, sapphires, rubies and emeralds were more readily available. Sometimes a jeweller would mount a selection of coloured stones on a base of white metal to produce a truly unique effect. Advances in the cutting of diamonds and the invention of mouldable plastic opened up a whole new world of possibilities. In 1923 Howard Carter's discovery of Tutankhamen's tomb had a profound influence on the designs of the day. Jade, ivory and carved gemstones became popular while Egyptian and Eastern motifs abounded, oddly juxtaposed with aeroplanes and automobiles.
During the Art Deco period jewellery became relatively inexpensive and, instead of being generally associated with the upper classes, was accessible to the less well-off. It became part of one's 'ensemble', an accessory for the ordinary people.
Today its influence can still be seen and appreciated. Art Deco jewellery opens a window into the past; a glimpse of old-world elegance and charm.
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